The Fine Art Print
March 20, 2021This is my post on the printing process of fine art photographs. Since graduating from the University of Kansas where I had access to a couple large-format Epson printers, I have had to switch to using a local printing company. I miss having control over the exact printing specifications of the photographs, using paper of my own choosing, and being able to do custom sizes without huge cost tacked on. But I don’t print enough to justify buying myself such a printer. So here are a few things to think about when it comes to the printing process whether you’re doing it yourself or using a service.
1. Paper
There is a wide variety of paper in the world, more than most people ever think about. When it comes to paper, it’s all about the weight - the thickness and sturdiness of the paper. A heavier weight means better value and preservation of the print because it’s not going to wrinkle or tear as easily. The unit of measurement for paper weight is GSM which stands for grams per square meter. Think about your average sheet of printer paper which has a gsm between 70-90. A newspaper is around 50 gsm, whereas fine art paper (used for formal invitations, multi-media, painting, drawing, etc.) weight is upwards of 300 gsm.
When you’re looking at different papers you’ll often see the term “acid-free”. This means that the paper if infused in water yields a neutral pH 7 or greater. Acid-free paper is used for preservation of work and will help you avoid potential discoloration and deterioration of your prints. There are especially durable acid-free paper types called “conservation paper” and “archival” or “museum-grade” paper.
Finally, there is texture and coating. You can feel the difference between running your hand along a linen watercolor paper and a glossy photo paper. These textures come down to the “finish” of the paper and whether or not it is “coated”. Coated paper has a chemical sealant on the surface which reduces ink absorbency. The finishes are gloss, matte, dull, and satin. Uncoated paper does not have the chemical coating which allows inks to be absorbed easily into the paper. The finishes are woven, smooth, linen, and laid. When reading about paper, I found that Steven Larracey is the most cited source of reference outside of wikipedia and I’ve included a link to his in-depth post about paper types here.
Brand-wise, I am a fan of Hahnemuhle paper. This paper company was founded back in 1584. My professor at the University of Kansas brought in a stack of samples of this brand which is how I fell in love with it. Specifically for my work I have chosen to the Photo Rag® Bright White paper weighing at 310gsm for high contrast images and the Photo Rag® Ultra Smooth weighing at 305 gsm for the vibrant color and deep black detail. Plus I can’t resist touching the paper…it feels so soft! Both are 100% cotton.
I admit that I have not tried other brands to compare and contrast, but since I no longer print my own work it’s a moot point. No matter what I prefer to use matte coated papers since they showcase deep colors and smooth or linen uncoated papers for their textures.
You can order samples from Hahnemuhle to decide which paper you like!
2. Ink versus Toner
Ink is best to use. It is absorbed into the paper and allows for the best blending of color. The first time I tried ordering from a local printing company (that was not labeled as a fine-art print place), I was unaware of the quality difference between ink and toner. My prints came out horrible despite using my beloved, expensive Hahnemuhle paper because the company had used toner which left a visible film on top of the paper. That is because toner actually coats the paper and is not absorbed. Remember to always make sure the company is using ink!
For more details on ink versus toner, HP has a dedicated post.
3. Matting & Framing
This is the icing on the cake of fine art printing. You want your print to last even when using the best of the best paper and ink. Therefore you’ll want to have your piece framed so that it is contained and protected from the elements of time and easy to display. The purpose of matboard is to act as a barrier between the image and glass, provide breathing room from the frame, and also highlight color or texture in the image. With matboard the rule of being acid-free applies here as well. For framing, there is regular glass and museum glass. Regular glass is cheaper, but will have a glare reflected off the glass and make the print harder to see. Museum glass is made with anti-reflective layers to eliminate and sort of glare and also includes a UV filter coating so UV rays won’t bleach the color. Of course, it is more expensive. I recommend spending the money on the museum glass every time because it will be worth it to fully enjoy your fine art print.
